The Appeal of an Emerging Asian City? No Congestion.
In a secluded area on the island of Borneo this past Monday, a jogger glided down the center of a newly laid six-lane roadway. There were no vehicles in sight. Adjacent to this scene, a colossal eagle-like sculpture, crafted from thousands of copper bars, stood majestically atop a hill. This location signifies the core of Nusantara, an innovative, eco-friendly city constructed from scratch within a forest in Indonesia. Yet, three years after the groundbreaking, the outlook for what was touted as Indonesia’s future capital remains uncertain. Only a small portion of the civil servants anticipated to relocate have actually done so. The sustainability of the water supply is questionable. Residents still face lengthy commutes to reach shopping centers or cinemas. Many locals now refer to it as a ghost city. Nevertheless, travelers frequently flock to Nusantara, often capturing TikTok videos in front of the impressive 250-foot-high and nearly 600-foot-wide monument dedicated to Garuda, Indonesia’s mythical bird and national symbol. Most arrive from neighboring towns in East Kalimantan Province, with some flying into Balikpapan, located a two-hour drive away. Among the city’s inhabitants, many are young newcomers from different regions of Indonesia and view themselves as trailblazers of a new urban lifestyle. Fachri Syamdoni Nawik, 26, a data consultant, relocated in March. “It’s exciting to be making history, right?” he stated. Nusantara aspires to be a “10-minute city,” ensuring that residents can access their destinations by walking, biking, or utilizing public transit within a ten-minute timeframe. Residents may travel on electric shuttle buses and are only allowed to drive cars classified as environmentally friendly. This is a groundbreaking idea for Indonesians who have grown accustomed to enduring traffic snarls in cities like Jakarta, the current capital. “I had never encountered any part of Indonesia that looked like this before,” shared Adji Pramono, 48, the assistant director for food and beverage at the Swissotel in Nusantara. Mr. Adji, who grew up in Jakarta, affirmed that he would never choose to work there again, where he had to rise at 4 a.m. to reach his job by 8. “It felt like I met angry faces every day,” he remarked. The atmosphere in Nusantara, he noted, is distinctly different.
This transformation was part of a pitch by Joko Widodo when he served as president, proposing to relocate the capital 800 miles from Jakarta, which is succumbing to the Java Sea. Nusantara, translating to “archipelago” in ancient Javanese, acknowledges the variety of islands and communities in Indonesia. However, detractors argue that Nusantara, with an estimated expenditure of around $30 billion, represents the arrogance of Mr. Joko, who initiated numerous infrastructural endeavors, including a financially burdensome high-speed train route on Java. His successor, Prabowo Subianto, has not yet made a visit to Nusantara since assuming office last year and has reduced the development budget. Recently, he appeared to express skepticism regarding the city’s future, stating it would remain a “political capital.” I stayed at the Swissotel, one of only two hotels in Nusantara and the sole establishment boasting an international brand. Chrestian Pesik, the general manager, mentioned that nine foreign ambassadors had recently visited the hotel and were considering the establishment of embassies. “Individuals unfamiliar with the history of this city might close their eyes and declare, ‘This is bound to be a ghost city,’” stated Mr. Chrestian, 40. “However, once they arrive, they can sense the city’s development.” When I inquired about recreational activities in the area, he responded, “We run!” On the day of my arrival, organizers were concluding a 50-kilometer, or 31-mile, trail race. Nusantara, known as I.K.N. in Indonesia, seems to serve as the primary venue for many competitions in East Kalimantan Province. Part frontier post, part university town, the future of whether Nusantara will evolve into the city Mr. Joko envisioned remains uncertain. Officials claim the current population stands at approximately 155,000, but the vicinity around the Garuda monument and the new presidential palace is home to just 10,000 people, predominantly construction workers. Nusantara is anticipated to span nearly 1,000 square miles, roughly double the size of Los Angeles. At present, the area is largely covered in trees. Expanses of emptiness are prevalent. Dining and grocery options are sparse, although a traditional market is currently under construction. Moreover, despite the abundance of greenery, there is limited shade, which makes the afternoon heat unbearable. Electricity is generated through a mix of solar energy and the power grid, but the long-term vision is for the city to operate entirely on clean energy. Putri, 23, a civil servant who graduated with a degree in electrical engineering last year, relocated to Nusantara in June. She remarked that she easily made friends (“Most of us are in our 20s!”) and never feels bored due to her participation in monthly food festivals and tree planting events. Numerous residents expressed that their living standards have improved in Nusantara. Mr. Fachri noted he lives in a 10th-floor apartment at no cost, provided by the government. His living space is equipped with a flat-screen television connected to Netflix and, for the first time, air-conditioning. Outside his apartment, there are three bins designated for waste separation. He described his current residence as the finest place he has ever lived. Downstairs, there is a gym as well as areas for soccer and table tennis. Nusantara aspires to be “livable and lovable,” according to its visitor center, which was mostly empty during my visit. These goals are indeed ambitious, but critics claim the city is adversely impacting the environment. Environmentalists allege that thousands of acres of mangrove forests, home to the endangered proboscis monkey, have been destroyed. The construction of the toll road linking it to Balikpapan, the nearest city, has disrupted critical water sources and led to increased flooding in that area, according to Mappaselle, the leader of the Balikpapan Coastal Working Group, an environmental organization. Mappaselle, who goes by a single name, pointed out that officials have not published an environmental impact assessment report. Bambang Susantono, the former head of the Nusantara Capital City Authority, resigned in 2024. He indicated that Mr. Joko pushed for much of the construction to be completed prior to leaving office that year; however, Mr. Bambang was concerned that hastening the timeline could cause issues. He acknowledged what transpired following the establishment of Brasília in Brazil, which is now surrounded by slums. “Building a city means fostering a community, not solely focusing on physical structures,” he explained. “Otherwise, one will have a city devoid of soul.” A pressing issue for the city is water. The dam constructed on the Sepaku River ensures the city’s water security “until 2030,” Mr. Bambang stated. After that point, officials would need to construct another dam or source water from other rivers. On a recent Monday evening, numerous tourists engaged in photography at the parks. Among them was Puput Rianti, 23, who was taking wedding photographs with her fiancé. She traveled from Penajam, a town located 30 miles away, expressing her desire to live there. “We want to feel the progress,” she remarked. Across the city, cranes continued their work. Andrinof Chaniago, Indonesia’s former minister for national development planning, who initiated the capital’s relocation, asserted that concerns regarding the project’s future are unwarranted. “It’s impossible to backtrack now,” he said. “Canceling it would simply render everything built useless.” Muktita Suhartono contributed reporting from Nusantara, with Rin Hindryati from Bogor, Indonesia.
Published: 2025-12-28 05:01:00
source: www.nytimes.com
